All of the predictors including the Farmer’s Almanac are saying the summer ahead of us is going to be a dry one. That means we are going to have to look after watering our outdoor spaces. When it comes to watering the lawn and the garden, there are some many myths and facts floating around (pun intended) that I thought it might be time for a refresher for all of the homeowners and gardeners out there. 

The best time to water your plants and the lawn is not at dusk, it’s only at dawn. When we water at night, the leaves of the plants have less opportunity to dry off fast, promoting fungal growth in our plants. The worst offenders include powdery mildew and anthracnose, which both need damp leaves and warm temperatures to invade a garden.

The proper amount to water the yard varies because your plants all have different needs. During the cooler months, your lawn needs approximately 1” of water per week. The best way to measure this is with a rain gauge, but if you don’t have one, 20 minutes of watering from the sprinkler 3 times a week is about right. During the hot summer months, your lawn needs twice as much water. 2 inches per week in July and August is the best way to ensure your lawn stays as green as possible. There are a few plants that flower all summer, but you’ve probably noticed that you get more flowers early and again heading into fall. This is because these tend to be cooler months and there is more moisture available to the plants.

When your plants are in bloom, they often need more water, which is partly why most of our gardens are in flower in May. When it comes to the plants, most of your garden perennials need 2 inches per week. This is a general rule of thumb only! There are hundreds of varieties of plants that do very well with less water and many that require more. Your vegetable garden is a perfect example. Veggies need the most amount of water in the yard, coming in at 2.5 inches. To be successful with your tomatoes and peppers, be diligent and water often in the early morning and keep the moisture on the roots instead of the leaves.

There is one more myth I want to address. I promise, there is no such thing as sunburnt grass or plants. Watering in the full sun has been shown to have no impact on your plants. Growing up I was taught that the water droplets would act as little magnifying glasses and scorch the lawn. Even though this is a complete myth, it does serve a great purpose. We should never be watering in the full sun because it’s a waste of water. More water is evaporated when exposed to sunlight before it gets to the roots and on hot and sunny days, you need twice as much to water to care for your plants. 

The best answer, water your plants when they need it. They will give you signs of stress like brown patches, wilted leaves, and drooping flower stems. The better you pay attention…the happier your garden will be.

Have you’ve ever gotten into a gardening funk? Gone a full week without having any motivation to get outside and do yard work? With all of the hot weather happening across the country, more and more yards are starting to show some neglect as homeowners would rather be in the air conditioning than outside under the hot sun.

I am currently in one of those funks. I know that there is lots I should be doing, not just for this year but also in prep for 2023’s vegetable garden as well. Luckily for me, the lack of water in my area has slowed down a lot of the plant growth including the grass, which buys me a little extra time. Also working in my favour, I’ve been through this before and I know exactly how to get out of it. I’ve done my research on this topic and tried all of the different solutions. Here are a few that work for me.

Stop trying to do something outside. Even just taking on the small stuff tends to get me more frustrated about the bigger jobs that I should be doing. Instead, leave the property and go somewhere that has beautiful gardens that someone else is paid to take care of. I love going to parks, arbouretums, even golf clubs and see what other experts are doing in their outdoor spaces. Sometimes just being surrounded by happy and healthy plants is enough to kick start your engine.

Read books, magazines or go on gardening websites to look at pretty pictures. I am a huge fan of going onto Houzz.com and doing random searches of backyard spaces. I’ve also had a subscription to several great gardening magazines from the UK including Fine Gardening. My creative juices start to flow looking at amazing pergolas covered in wisteria or even a picture-perfect shaded space where the designer has blended plants in pockets of sunlight. I’ll also go to a bookstore and buy a bunch of magazines. There is something about sitting in the shade and looking at hi-gloss pictures that helps me love plants again.

If all else fails, start shopping for next years seeds. Sounds a bit grim already thinking about next year, but planning your new project is a great way to motivate yourself into getting some of the preparation done this year. Seeds often go on sale now so stocking up is a great way to save some money and to put a little pep back into your gardening mojo. I’ve already started getting seeds delivered to the house of some of the new tomatoes I want to grow. 

Try a few of these motivational techniques and before you know it, you’ll be excited to get back into your outdoor space. Just make sure to put on lots of sunscreen…its going to be a long summer ahead of us.

Its officially time to prune your fruit trees! I know it seems like an odd time to be pruning your apple, pear, plum, peaches, cherries (and any fruit trees I may have missed) but the deep part of winter is the perfect time to start trimming. The reason...if you prune a fruit bearing tree when it's not dormant, the tree immediately sends growth hormones to that area to replace what was lost. Unfortunately, the new growth is in the form of suckers which are canes that grow straight up and rarely produce any fruit.

This year I have to take it one step further than just a little trim on my own trees. I unfortunately have lost a leader on one of my dwarf Empire apples. There is an incorrect belief that if you cut the tree’s central vertical stem, called the leader, the tree will stay small and more easily managed. Unfortunately, this not true. You will however end up with a poorly shaped tree that will struggle throughout its growing period to re-establish a new leader! In my case, I had the central leader of my tree split due to some severe freezing temperatures followed by unseasonably warm temperatures. There are some rules when pruning an apple tree, especially when you are doing some damage repair like I have to.

Start by removing all of the dead, damaged and diseased wood. Another benefit of pruning in the winter is that all of the trees sap, the fluid that transports nutrients from the roots to the shoots, is safely protected in the ground. If you prune in spring or even in summer, some of this sap would be lost before the tree can naturally form a scab over the cut wood.

The above-ground parts of a tree are broken down into three main components.  The trunk of the tree is the part that connects the leafy greens to the roots. Much of a tree’s stability comes from the trunk. As a tree grows and ages, the trunk gets thicker, making it structurally stronger. The leader of the tree is the top part of the trunk that grows vertically. In my case, I have to train a new branch to take over this role. Luckily, I have a branch that is already growing somewhat vertically near the centre of the tree that I am able to train into a new leader.

From the leader/trunk of the tree are the scaffold branches. These are the primary branches that form a trees canopy. When pruning these branches look to remove crossing and rubbing branches then identify the best shape for your tree and remove the small branches that form on the trunk around the desired scaffold branches. The strongest scaffold branches grow at between 45 and 60 degrees from the trunk

From the scaffold branches are the lateral branches. These are the secondary branches that grow out from the scaffold branches. Sometimes called twigs, the lateral branches of a tree support much of the leaf and fruit development.  REMEMBER!!! It is important to never remove more than 30 percent of these branches per year otherwise it will hinder the tree’s ability to replenish sap and food stores via photosynthesis.

Pruning your apple trees is never a one-and-done situation. It takes time, done over many years so be patient. As long as you give your tree time to grow in between trimmings, you can always avoid doing any serious damage. 

Want tulips or daffodils next spring?  NOW is the time to plant your bulbs.  

Here is my foolproof way to plant bulbs that will last for many years of enjoyment.

1. Choose the right bulbs! Whether you are shopping at a retail store or ordering online, make sure to look at the growing specs of all of the options. Not all tulips are the same! A few years ago I planted white tulips from big healthy looking bulbs. I didn’t realize that these tulips were giants, growing over 4’ tall. Unfortunately, I planted them in front of a basement window. (They have now been moved) 

2. Flat bottom holes work best. When planting your bulbs, I often group them in clusters in larger flat bottom holes that have good drainage. Bulbs can easily rot if they are in saturated soil. The depth of the hole should be about three times the height of the bulb. On average, I aim for 3" deep!

3. Delayed Flowering. Bulbs prefer to be planted ‘Tips Up, Roots down’. I’ve found that if you lay some bulbs on their sides, it takes them a little longer to bloom because they have to grow just a little further. This is an easy way to extend the flowering time from two weeks to three!

4. Amendments and squirrel deterrents. Often, gardeners will add fertilizers, bone meal or other products at this stage to help growth or to prevent squirrels from stealing your tubers because they don't like the smell. Even leftover chicken wire with 1 or 2” holes works well as a covering for your bulbs. After you dig the hole and put in your bulbs, cover them with the wire and then back fill with soil. The tulips have no problem growing through the mesh and the squirrels are unable to get the bulbs out from under it. 

5. Back fill and Disguise. Bury your bulbs and chicken wire with soil, being careful to not pack it down too firmly. Once this is done, spend a few minutes to disguise your planted space. Squirrels are attracted to disturbed soil because they think a rival has hidden a nut in that location. I like to add mulch to the whole bed at this point to keep the little critters guessing.

Bulbs really are the perfect way to pre-plan for an amazing spring. Whether you love them for you or looking to add a little curb appeal, do the work now and enjoy the rewards after the snow melts. Just make sure that you wait for the cooler weather…bulbs like soil that is 4C or colder. I NEVER plant bulbs before the first frost. Be patient, I promise that they are worth it.

A few years ago, my inquisitive nephew wanted to help out with the fall to-do-list. We spent an afternoon doing some yard work and  I showed him all of my fun yard tools and how they worked. As I taught him about the jobs that needed to be done, he constantly asked “but why?” to each of my demos. I realized afterwards that most homeowners may know what they should do when it comes to fall cleanup, but few know the real logic behind it. 

Today I’m answering a few of the “but why’s” so that you will know why we do what we do when it comes to our fall outdoor yard work.

1. String trimmers (weed whackers) have always been the handy tool that lets you cut the grass in spots that you can’t easily get to with the mower. Around trees, on steep slopes or near the raised concrete paths, the string trimmer has become a staple in the garage mostly for its ease of use in problem areas. We cut this grass in the fall to ensure that insects and diseases like Rust or Mildew don't overwinter at the base of the trunk. I've seen many homeowners do a lot of damage to the bark of young trees by trying to get too close with their mowers or by hitting the trees with the high-speed twine in their trimmers. This outer layer of bark carries nutrients back and forth between root and leaf.  Using a string trimmer with a proper shield guard trimmer/edger combo, which will prevent damage to the tree and be safer for the user. 

2. Mower height is a big debate with a lot of lawn care maintenance companies. Some argue that shorter is better for the look of the yard while others feel that longer promotes a healthier lawn. For most of us, the best height is somewhere between 2 ½ and 3 inches. Setting your mower to 3inches in the hot summer months helps the grass from drying out, but do you know what height the last cut of the season should be? By going lower than normal, between 2 and 2 ½ inches, you can take advantage of the cold weather at night to kill off crabgrass, which is a tender annual. Also consider putting the bag back on the mower to capture the seeds from these self-seeding weeds

3. Getting the leaves off the grass is an annual right of every lawn owner. Having leaves on the grass once the snow has fallen will smother the lawn below. Not to mention that the wet leaves in the spring look terrible and are twice as hard to remove. Another less commonly known reason for removing the leaves is leaf mould. While great for decomposing matter in the composter, leaf mould is terrible for allergy sufferers. The mould spores cause an allergic reaction similar to pollen in the wet spring, causing many people to incorrectly blame the trees and flowers for their stuffed up noses.

If you’re already doing these chores, don’t stop. When a small child asks ‘But why’; you now have a little more information and won’t have to resort to the default answer of “Because it's what we've always done”.

We are quickly heading into my favourite time of the year! While some may look at autumn as the last chance to get yard work done before winter, I prefer to focus on the rewards of all of the effort that I put in throughout spring and summer. This is the time of year best known for the harvest, and my vegetable garden is bursting with all of the proverbial ‘fruits of my labour’. This is also the time of year when I need to start filling the freezer, can and preserve all of the food that I grew for my family to eat. I really focus on three methods of food preservation: canning, freezing and dehydrating.

When it comes to canning, the technique is pretty simple. Put food into a jar and seal the jar so that no bacteria can attack your food. Obviously there are more steps involved, but from a basic perspective, this is what canning is. I do a lot of my canning of items like carrots, cucumbers and beans by incorporating a brine; a solution of salt and vinegar. (The salt is really just there for flavour). This simple liquid, mixed with herbs, garlic, chilies or even spices not only preserves the food; it also imparts flavour into it. For foods like jams and sauces that can be poured into a jar without a lot of air pockets, adding brine isn’t necessary. 

Filling the freezer full of produce and meats is something that I picked up from my mother and her mother before that. Buying in bulk or growing and harvesting food to put away for when you need it is not only rewarding, it’s an amazing way to feed your family healthy food and save money at the same time. I often incorporate a sheet pan when I am freezing ‘juicy’ foods like strawberries or blueberries because they tend to stick together. By spreading the food across the sheet pan, you can ensure that each piece freezes individually. The other big challenge with the use of the freezer is the damage from air in the bag or container. Called ‘freezer burn’, it is one of the most common ways that food is damaged through dehydration and oxidation. I use a vacuum sealing system to extend the life of my fresh AND frozen foods because it effectively removes the oxygen from their specially designed bags and containers that I freezing in. Studies have shown that your food will last up to 5 times longer by using a vacuum sealing system versus Tupperware or plastic resealable bags. 

Finally, I often will dehydrate a lot of my foods to preserve them, especially the juicy ones like tomatoes and apples. Dehydration has some great benefits over canning and freezing. This process of drying out food removes more of the risk of botulism, requires less room for storage and is relatively inexpensive to do. The key to dehydrating food is to prepare it the way you plan on consuming it before you dry it out because it is often very difficult to work with once preserved. 

Whether you have a garden or just visit the local farmers market, get out this fall and stock up on all the best and freshest fruits, meats and vegetables that your community has to offer. Just make sure that you are preserving them so that you can feed your family through the entire winter.

I was recently asked at a presentation why the ‘G’ in HGTV has almost completely disappeared. If you didn’t know, the G stands for gardening and at one time there were plenty of television shows about planting, horticulture and design. Now they are all gone. Even the current series, Backyard Builds really doesn’t talk about gardening although they do outdoor makeovers on it. It’s a bit of a challenge because as a hobby, gardening had been in decline for the last 10 years. A decade ago, gardening was listed as the top hobby in Canada right next to bird watching. So what happened? Did that demographic die off? Why has gardening become hot again and how do we keep it that way?

Back in its prime, anything with the word ‘garden’ in it was an instant moneymaker and we all know that money is what drives trends. Gardening doesn’t make money anymore. Gardening has been replaced with this concept of outdoor living. It all started with the introduction of the ‘low maintenance’ backyard. Homeowners began to realize that they could have beautiful outdoor spaces without having to put a lot of work into them. It’s a bit sad, but many homeowners would rather pay to get exercise at the gym wearing fashionable work-out wear than get sweaty in their own backyards creating something beautiful. The media has definitely helped this shift as commercials and advertisers make more money when homeowners pay for products or services instead of doing the work themselves.

Now I don’t believe that this is the only reason for the change in our outdoor habits, but it is definitely a big one. I actually feel bad because I’ve been a part of it for so long. Creating the perfect backyards for magazines and television shows has been my life for the last 20years. So how do I help you get back to basics in your outdoor space?

The good news is that the move is already on. Thanks to the Millennials and to some industrious Gen X’ers, the idea of healthy food is driving a new movement called GIY (Grow It Yourself). Now homeowners are growing food in containers, starting vegetable gardens and paying attention to what is going on in the backyard. We are also seeing a major move away from urban centres. This is in part to the pandemic, but also a desire to have space. Today's new homers list having a yard as a big reason to move away from condos, townhomes and urban houses. As of today, gardening is back on top in North America and if you include caring for houseplants, there are now more than 12,000,000 blog sites on horticulture in some form

It also doesn’t hurt that scientists have found that inhaling the naturally occurring bacteria in soil has similar effects to taking Prozac. 

 After a long absence in the media, who knew that gardening would be the new fix!

Here is a great fan question that I recently received...but one that required a creative answer!

"I really enjoy watching you on Cityline and I just redid my backyard and now I need to suggestions and ideas on what I should plant in terms of tress, shrubs or flowers. " - Darlene 

Talk about a loaded question! Homeowners always want a simple set of directions to help them get the right plant in the right spot. Unfortunately, there are so many different variables to every single home that there is no way for me to personally help. That said...here is my foolproof method to get you on the right path to having your own successful garden. 

• 1. Spy on your neighbours. Yes, I am actually advising you to peek over the fence or to take a very slow drive-by of homes around you. Get your camera or smartphone and start snapping pictures of their gardens. 
• 2. Take pictures of your own garden. Be candid with lots of close-ups and several distance shots. (These pictures will be very important to the next step)
• 3. Take all of your photos to the garden centre and ask for a plant expert.

Okay, so this isn’t rocket science. Logically these 3 simple little steps make so much sense. It’s amazing how many people don’t do them. With similar soils and weather patterns, the plants that are doing well in your neighbour’s yards will probably do very well in yours. Pay attention to the combinations of plants, to heights, and to the proximity of the plants to trees and the house. These are all indicators of where that particular plant is best suited. By taking those pictures of your favourite plant possibilities and the photos of your space, the plant expert at the local garden centre will be able to help identify the plants that you want to grow and steer you in the right direction for plants that will actually grow in the spaces you have.

I also want to point out one other important fact. Do this NOW! Fall is a perfect time to check out what the plants look like at the end of the season. Too often we plan our gardens on what flowers we want in our yards for spring and summer and not what shades of autumn foliage will be at the end of the year. Save your pictures until spring if you are unsure and take a look at the same plants in June to know that you still love them. Or, if like me you really want to be ahead of the gardening curve, go to the garden centres now and take advantage of amazing discounts. You can safely put shrubs and perennials into your yard until the top few inches of soil is frozen.