All of the predictors including the Farmer’s Almanac are saying the summer ahead of us is going to be a dry one. That means we are going to have to look after watering our outdoor spaces. When it comes to watering the lawn and the garden, there are some many myths and facts floating around (pun intended) that I thought it might be time for a refresher for all of the homeowners and gardeners out there. 

The best time to water your plants and the lawn is not at dusk, it’s only at dawn. When we water at night, the leaves of the plants have less opportunity to dry off fast, promoting fungal growth in our plants. The worst offenders include powdery mildew and anthracnose, which both need damp leaves and warm temperatures to invade a garden.

The proper amount to water the yard varies because your plants all have different needs. During the cooler months, your lawn needs approximately 1” of water per week. The best way to measure this is with a rain gauge, but if you don’t have one, 20 minutes of watering from the sprinkler 3 times a week is about right. During the hot summer months, your lawn needs twice as much water. 2 inches per week in July and August is the best way to ensure your lawn stays as green as possible. There are a few plants that flower all summer, but you’ve probably noticed that you get more flowers early and again heading into fall. This is because these tend to be cooler months and there is more moisture available to the plants.

When your plants are in bloom, they often need more water, which is partly why most of our gardens are in flower in May. When it comes to the plants, most of your garden perennials need 2 inches per week. This is a general rule of thumb only! There are hundreds of varieties of plants that do very well with less water and many that require more. Your vegetable garden is a perfect example. Veggies need the most amount of water in the yard, coming in at 2.5 inches. To be successful with your tomatoes and peppers, be diligent and water often in the early morning and keep the moisture on the roots instead of the leaves.

There is one more myth I want to address. I promise, there is no such thing as sunburnt grass or plants. Watering in the full sun has been shown to have no impact on your plants. Growing up I was taught that the water droplets would act as little magnifying glasses and scorch the lawn. Even though this is a complete myth, it does serve a great purpose. We should never be watering in the full sun because it’s a waste of water. More water is evaporated when exposed to sunlight before it gets to the roots and on hot and sunny days, you need twice as much to water to care for your plants. 

The best answer, water your plants when they need it. They will give you signs of stress like brown patches, wilted leaves, and drooping flower stems. The better you pay attention…the happier your garden will be.

It was about 10 years ago that real estate agents and experts starting warning homeowners about the risks of having swimming pools in the backyard and how they can lower the value of the property. Thankfully for all of us who like to take a dip in the comforts of home, this stat no longer holds water (pun intended). We now know that while some buyers prefer to not have a pool in the backyard, there is a completely separate market of ones who do.

When buying their county home, Stew and Rebecca overlooked the weeds and neglected backyard when purchasing their home because they saw the potential of the saltwater swimming pool that was already installed. They just needed to take a really BIG step towards creating the space of their dreams. In this case, this backyard just needed a really big deck to cover over absolutely everything. With all of the different elevations and slopes around the pool, there really wasn’t any useable space. Adding a massive wood deck is the easiest, and most affordable to get them enough room for lots of neighbours all summer long. 

Although adding a deck was an easy solution to many of the problems in the backyard, there were a few design elements that had to be incorporated.

First was the choice of wood. I was pretty adamant that MicroPro’s Sienna was used for a couple of reasons. Sienna wood has been endorsed by several registered environmental agencies to be safe for use in areas that include water and children’s playgrounds. I also felt that it was important for homeowners to have a pre-stained wood so that it’s easy to maintain with an application of a water repellent.

I also wanted the linear lines in the space to help make the yard feel even bigger. Too often with backyards that have pools, the pool visually dominates the area. In this situation, I wanted the deck to be prominent enough so that it wasn’t dwarfed in the yard.

Even though we went with a wood deck, it was important to have a stone coping around the edge of the pool. This bullnose coping from Rinox is perfect for getting in and out of the pool with ease and it visually creates the perfect transition between the wood and the water. 

Even if you don’t have a pool in your backyard, use some of these design principles to help make your space look bigger and last longer as well. Just replace the pool with gardens or even a lawn and the stone coping with the rounded bullnose is prefect as a transition between a deck and a garden bed.

Want tulips or daffodils next spring?  NOW is the time to plant your bulbs.  

Here is my foolproof way to plant bulbs that will last for many years of enjoyment.

1. Choose the right bulbs! Whether you are shopping at a retail store or ordering online, make sure to look at the growing specs of all of the options. Not all tulips are the same! A few years ago I planted white tulips from big healthy looking bulbs. I didn’t realize that these tulips were giants, growing over 4’ tall. Unfortunately, I planted them in front of a basement window. (They have now been moved) 

2. Flat bottom holes work best. When planting your bulbs, I often group them in clusters in larger flat bottom holes that have good drainage. Bulbs can easily rot if they are in saturated soil. The depth of the hole should be about three times the height of the bulb. On average, I aim for 3" deep!

3. Delayed Flowering. Bulbs prefer to be planted ‘Tips Up, Roots down’. I’ve found that if you lay some bulbs on their sides, it takes them a little longer to bloom because they have to grow just a little further. This is an easy way to extend the flowering time from two weeks to three!

4. Amendments and squirrel deterrents. Often, gardeners will add fertilizers, bone meal or other products at this stage to help growth or to prevent squirrels from stealing your tubers because they don't like the smell. Even leftover chicken wire with 1 or 2” holes works well as a covering for your bulbs. After you dig the hole and put in your bulbs, cover them with the wire and then back fill with soil. The tulips have no problem growing through the mesh and the squirrels are unable to get the bulbs out from under it. 

5. Back fill and Disguise. Bury your bulbs and chicken wire with soil, being careful to not pack it down too firmly. Once this is done, spend a few minutes to disguise your planted space. Squirrels are attracted to disturbed soil because they think a rival has hidden a nut in that location. I like to add mulch to the whole bed at this point to keep the little critters guessing.

Bulbs really are the perfect way to pre-plan for an amazing spring. Whether you love them for you or looking to add a little curb appeal, do the work now and enjoy the rewards after the snow melts. Just make sure that you wait for the cooler weather…bulbs like soil that is 4C or colder. I NEVER plant bulbs before the first frost. Be patient, I promise that they are worth it.

Here is a great fan question that I recently received...but one that required a creative answer!

"I really enjoy watching you on Cityline and I just redid my backyard and now I need to suggestions and ideas on what I should plant in terms of tress, shrubs or flowers. " - Darlene 

Talk about a loaded question! Homeowners always want a simple set of directions to help them get the right plant in the right spot. Unfortunately, there are so many different variables to every single home that there is no way for me to personally help. That said...here is my foolproof method to get you on the right path to having your own successful garden. 

• 1. Spy on your neighbours. Yes, I am actually advising you to peek over the fence or to take a very slow drive-by of homes around you. Get your camera or smartphone and start snapping pictures of their gardens. 
• 2. Take pictures of your own garden. Be candid with lots of close-ups and several distance shots. (These pictures will be very important to the next step)
• 3. Take all of your photos to the garden centre and ask for a plant expert.

Okay, so this isn’t rocket science. Logically these 3 simple little steps make so much sense. It’s amazing how many people don’t do them. With similar soils and weather patterns, the plants that are doing well in your neighbour’s yards will probably do very well in yours. Pay attention to the combinations of plants, to heights, and to the proximity of the plants to trees and the house. These are all indicators of where that particular plant is best suited. By taking those pictures of your favourite plant possibilities and the photos of your space, the plant expert at the local garden centre will be able to help identify the plants that you want to grow and steer you in the right direction for plants that will actually grow in the spaces you have.

I also want to point out one other important fact. Do this NOW! Fall is a perfect time to check out what the plants look like at the end of the season. Too often we plan our gardens on what flowers we want in our yards for spring and summer and not what shades of autumn foliage will be at the end of the year. Save your pictures until spring if you are unsure and take a look at the same plants in June to know that you still love them. Or, if like me you really want to be ahead of the gardening curve, go to the garden centres now and take advantage of amazing discounts. You can safely put shrubs and perennials into your yard until the top few inches of soil is frozen.

Every spring I get a boatload of emails from gardeners wondering what went wrong with their bulbs and flowering plants. Spring more than any other time seems to have more tension when it comes to things not going as planned. I think this is because we wait all winter for a shot of colour in the garden and when it doesn’t happen, we get stressed.

Here are some of my favourite questions from this year’s selection.

I planted a beautiful tulip called Tequila Sunrise and for three years it bloomed exactly like the description on the label; soft yellow petals with frilly raspberry edges. This year, in the exact same spot, I have a bright orange tulip with a little yellow on the edge. What happened?

So this is a bit of a scientific answer. Many of the unique and striated tulips are caused by infecting healthy tulip bulbs with a virus called TBV (Tulip Breaking Virus). This process is what causes the great colour changes in the petals. Have no fear, this is not a virus that affects humans, animals, or other plants (except potatoes) Your tulip over the last few years has been able to get rid of the virus and is reverting back to its natural state. (I hope you like orange)

My neighbours all have beautiful forsythias that bloom every spring. My shrub gives me a few blooms and lots of green leaves. I prune and fertilize it every fall but no luck. What am I doing wrong?

I’m afraid you are not going to like my answer on this one. Forsythias bloom on old wood. The flowers appear on last season’s growth, which means if you are pruning it every fall, you are removing the flowering buds with branches that you are trimming off. Instead, prune your forsythia in the spring once the flowers are over for the season. I usually clean it up within a few weeks of the end of bloom time.

The squirrels keep stealing my bulbs. They think that I’ve opened a buffet every fall and they eat every last one. I’ve tried bone meal, cayenne, chicken wire and still I have no spring flowers. Help!

Squirrels are competitive. They like to steal food from other squirrels. If they see soil that has been dug up, they immediately think that a rival has hidden something in the ground in that location. You might want to consider ‘hiding’ your newly planted bulbs under leaves and mulch. Alternatively, I would move away from tulips for at least one or two seasons. Try planting hyacinths, daffodils or allium. All three of these are less-than-appealing to the squirrels and will actually survive the fall feeding frenzy long enough to bloom next sprin

Many moons ago, I read an article written by the amazing Dear Abby where she spoke about being asked the same question by readers on a regular basis. Who knew that so many people cared about which way to toilet paper roll goes on the holder! Now that I’ve been on the radio and writing  for a few years, I’m beginning to understand what she was referring to. In her honour, I am going to post the answers to the top 3 questions that I always get asked as well in hopes that this will solve some of your own outdoor challenges

How do I eliminate grass and weeds growing between the patio stones? We now know that most weeds have roots that are at least 4-6 inches long. To prevent weeds from growing between the patio stones, you have to make sure that the gravel base beneath the patio is at least 8 inches. This works for grass and dandelions if you are installing a new patio, but what about an existing one? Nutrients like decomposing leaves can build up over time in the joints, allowing for some weeds to take root. Remove the sand and roots with a high-powered pressure washer. Once the patio has been blasted, give it a scrub with white vinegar that is 10% acidic. Next, use polymeric sand, which is available at most box stores, to refill the gaps. Lightly spray the sand with water to moisten it that activates the binding agents, creating a tight seal between the stones that the weeds can’t penetrate.

What is a low-maintenance plant for my yard? I hate this term when it comes to plants because everyone has a different definition of what low-maintenance actually means. Every plant, tree, or shrub needs some form of care. Obviously the levels of work are going to vary based on the plant itself. If you really want an easy way to have a big show without having to learn how to care for a lot of different plants, just pick one and plant lots of it! Landscapers have been using this technique for years. Mass plantings are a simple way to fill a big space without having to learn several different sets of care instructions.

My grass always goes brown in July and August. How do I keep it green? I’m going to let you in on a little secret, for years we’ve been planting Kentucky Blue Grass, which goes dormant in the summer. When the grass goes dormant, its totally fine but its doesn’t look so great. This also happens to be the same time that sprinklers and fertilizers all seem to go on sale. This year, spend your money on top dressing the lawn with grass seed that contains fescue in the mix (the higher the percentage the better). Fescue does very well in our climate, and doesn’t go brown in the summer!

Make sure to save this article so that you will always have the answers to these questions because, like Dear Abby, I am only moving forward from here. (wink wink)

For the last 10 years, the term ‘Outdoor Room’ has been used by realtors and homeowners to refer to any type of seating outside. The truth is, you can’t assume that if you have a deck or a patio, you have an outdoor room. Even better, installing an outdoor room at the end of the season can save you thousands of dollars, as more construction companies are available to bid on your job in the fall then they are in the busy spring. Just make sure you add a heat source so that you can use your amazing space for as long as possible. 

Here are the key items that you need to create the perfect outdoor room:

1. Flooring. Just like any indoor room, your outdoor space needs a good floor. Decks and patios have traditionally been the best choice because they hold their value the longest with minimal effort. When choosing the best floor for your outdoor space, budget is always important. My favourite way to spend less and get the biggest return is to use one of the new types of pre-stained pressure treated wood that looks like cedar but costs significantly less and allows you to create the impression of an outdoor hardwood floor with less maintenance. An alternate to traditional wood, composite decking has grown in popularity even though it costs more. If you already have a patio or a deck, consider adding an outdoor area rug. A well-placed rug can define a space, introduce a colour scheme or even create a focal point.

2. Walls. Outdoor walls are not just for hanging pots. The walls around your outdoor room are also very important to create privacy. Whenever I mention outdoor walls, people always assume that I’m referring to the fences around the property line. To me, the fence defines a boundary, whereas the walls around an outdoor room create intimacy and keep your guests from feeling like they are on display. The key to a successful privacy screen is to keep it close to where you actually need privacy. 

3. Roof. Not just for blocking the sun, an outdoor roof defines the room. My favourite option will always be the pergola. Great for growing vines, creating ambience, even for hanging outdoor lights, the pergola makes any outdoor space feel welcoming and intimate. Some may think a pergola is purely decorative, but to me, when I walk into an outdoor room with a roof, it just feels right. It’s that intangible connection that you want a potential buyer to unconsciously notice.

Every renovation we make to our homes not only has to meet our needs as homeowners, it should also increase the home’s value. This idea of return-on-investment (ROI) has arguably become the most important factor influencing how we spend our renovation budgets. An outdoor room is a fantastic way to increase home value, but also gives your family more living space. Who could ask for more? 

The garden shed has made an amazing transformation over the last few years. No longer are homeowners satisfied with a little wooden shed in the back corner of the yard. Sheds now have to look good, as they are becoming a focal point in our outdoor living spaces.

There are two reasons why this is happening. The first, backyards are getting smaller as homes are getting bigger. The available space outside is shrinking, which means that we can’t hide our beat-up tins sheds behind a large bush anymore. The other main reason has to do with our need for more. With all of the fantastic tools and outdoor furniture available, our need for storage has increased dramatically as we acquire more things. This means that our sheds are getting larger, making them even harder to keep discrete. 

Instead of helping my clients hide their sheds, I am bringing them front and centre. Here are two perfect examples of how sheds can be so much more in your backyard space.

Tracy’s shed

I used this saltbox roof styled shed to both anchor Tracy’s backyard, but also to hide the neighbour’s 2-storey house which towered over the back fence. The average height of a peaked roof on these new sheds is 12-15’ and by adding a pair of lattice panels topped with a decorative arbour, I was able to create instant privacy that is beautiful and functional at the same time. My favourite part of this transformation is that the shed not only holds all of the tools, but Tracy’s kids have hijacked the space as their playhouse, making it multi-purpose for the whole family.

Shoana’s shed

Shoana, like Tracy, wanted a shed at the back of her property but for a very different reason. Shoana wanted to use her shed as a backdrop for a long and linear space. With a modern aesthetic, Shoana wanted her shed to blend with the grey tones of her patio and fire pit, but also to have character and personality that is often lacking in modern design. In this case, I covered a simple asymmetrical panel shed with a stone veneer. The stone took about 5 hours to install, but completely changed the look of the shed. 

With so many ways to make your shed more than a storage space, why wouldn’t you want to make a change? Try something different this summer and make sure you send me a picture. I’d love to see what you are able to create with a little imagination.